Every few months a new holy grail item sweeps social media by storm. Collagen, hydroxy acids, and clay masks skim the very outer surface of an industry that's conservatively worth $300 billion. And while certain items are pushed extensively, the most important aspect to shopping for skincare is to be an informed consumer. What exactly do you need, why do you need it and what is it worth? There is never a skin care routine that works for everyone, however, if you listen to your skins needs then you can curtail your purchases. Usually, one can find affordable items with the same ingredients that work just as well as the more expensive brand names.
Hyaluronic Acid
As skin ages it naturally loses moisture. This results in less supple, less radiant and more wrinkle prone skin. The main culprit is the body slowing down Hyaluronic Acid production with age. Hyaluronic Acid is the skins primary vehicle for moisture retention as it can bind to water molecules up to 1,000 times its weight. It's a great addition to a skin care routine as a serum since its molecules are small enough to seep into the skin topically. It moisturizes without feeling heavy or clogging pores. Look out for the term ‘sodium hyaluronate’, which is a salt derivative of hyaluronic acid that works even more effectively due to its smaller size.
Collagen Supplement
Collagen is a protein found all throughout the human body. It gives the skin its structure, elasticity and firmness. The body decreases collagen production by 1% each year after 20 and then declines sharply after menopause. This is due to declination of estrogen which controls collagen synthesis in the body. Studies have shown that taking a collagen supplement daily can help increase hydration and reduce wrinkles. Avoid creams and moisturizers claiming to have collagen as the particles are too large to penetrate the skin. Opt for an oral supplement instead that has Type I and II collagen, as these are the most studied types and are proven to enrich hair, nails and skin.
Vitamin C ( L-Ascorbic Acid) Vitamin C is an essential vitamin and plays a key role in the stabilization and production of collagen. Studies have shown that Vitamin C helps maintain collagen density by preventing the inactivation of Lysyl and Propel Hyroxylase, two enzymes that help biosynthesize collagen. In addition, it strengthens the existing collagen network of the body. Topical application is effective when the product is below a pH of 4.0 and when the stratum corneum (the outer most layer of the skin) is removed by laser, chemical or mechanical methods (in other words, exfoliation). Additionally, the antioxidants in Vitamin C have been shown to fight free radicals caused by UV damage. In fact, we know the skin requires Vitamin C to combat UV and UVB radiation damage due to the increase of transport proteins for Vitamin C in the keratinocytes of the skin after sun damage. While topical application and supplements can work it’s generally recommended to eat foods containing Vitamin C such as citrus fruit, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, and more. The recommended dietary allowance for Vitamin C per day is 90 mg for men and 75 mg for women.
Retinol What many people may not know is that Retinol is pure Vitamin A. Retinol promotes cell
Hyaluronic Acid
As skin ages it naturally loses moisture. This results in less supple, less radiant and more wrinkle prone skin. The main culprit is the body slowing down Hyaluronic Acid production with age. Hyaluronic Acid is the skins primary vehicle for moisture retention as it can bind to water molecules up to 1,000 times its weight. It's a great addition to a skin care routine as a serum since its molecules are small enough to seep into the skin topically. It moisturizes without feeling heavy or clogging pores. Look out for the term ‘sodium hyaluronate’, which is a salt derivative of hyaluronic acid that works even more effectively due to its smaller size.
Collagen Supplement
Collagen is a protein found all throughout the human body. It gives the skin its structure, elasticity and firmness. The body decreases collagen production by 1% each year after 20 and then declines sharply after menopause. This is due to declination of estrogen which controls collagen synthesis in the body. Studies have shown that taking a collagen supplement daily can help increase hydration and reduce wrinkles. Avoid creams and moisturizers claiming to have collagen as the particles are too large to penetrate the skin. Opt for an oral supplement instead that has Type I and II collagen, as these are the most studied types and are proven to enrich hair, nails and skin.
Vitamin C ( L-Ascorbic Acid) Vitamin C is an essential vitamin and plays a key role in the stabilization and production of collagen. Studies have shown that Vitamin C helps maintain collagen density by preventing the inactivation of Lysyl and Propel Hyroxylase, two enzymes that help biosynthesize collagen. In addition, it strengthens the existing collagen network of the body. Topical application is effective when the product is below a pH of 4.0 and when the stratum corneum (the outer most layer of the skin) is removed by laser, chemical or mechanical methods (in other words, exfoliation). Additionally, the antioxidants in Vitamin C have been shown to fight free radicals caused by UV damage. In fact, we know the skin requires Vitamin C to combat UV and UVB radiation damage due to the increase of transport proteins for Vitamin C in the keratinocytes of the skin after sun damage. While topical application and supplements can work it’s generally recommended to eat foods containing Vitamin C such as citrus fruit, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, and more. The recommended dietary allowance for Vitamin C per day is 90 mg for men and 75 mg for women.
Retinol What many people may not know is that Retinol is pure Vitamin A. Retinol promotes cell
turnover and stimulates the growth of newer blood vessels under the skin. This results in more radiant, even toned skin. They also keep the face firm and elastic by preventing the break down of collagen as well as bolstering its production. It is recommended that one uses it by gradually working up to tolerance along with moisturizer. It is important to note that though products may claim noticeable results in less than 12 weeks it actually takes 6 to 12 months for retinol to make a difference in the skin.
AHA’s/BHA’s Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids are chemical exfoliants that work by detaching dead skin cells from newer skin for an even, smoother exfoliation. They are much more effective than physical exfoliation which can be uneven and harsher on the skin. They decrease inflammation, even skin tone and texture, and prevent acne by unclogging pores.
AHA’s are water soluble acids derived of natural foods such as cane sugar (glycolic acid) and milk (lactic acid). Studies have shown that AHA's can promote collagen production. They minimize discoloration by promoting cell turnover as well as increasing blood flow to the skin to combat a dull complexion. Typically, 8-10% AHA’s in a product is effective and a higher percentage does not necessarily make a difference.
BHA’s are oil soluble acids which make them better equipped to fight oily skin and acne.They easily penetrate deep into the pores to remove dead skin and sebum. The most familiar type of BHA is salicylic acid and due to FDA regulation they are always 2%.
Don’t fall victim to marketing and popularity. Shop around, do your research and pay attention to the ingredients list on products. Pin point the main issues you have with your skin (Too oily? Too dry? Fine lines?) and refine your list of products to target those issues. In the end, even with a holistic skin care routine, it's important to be realistic about the perfection of your complexion. Usually, the influencers and celebrities who determine our beauty standards either achieve their perfection through expensive procedures or Facetune. So don't be too hard on yourself or your skin and do what feels right for you.
AHA’s/BHA’s Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids are chemical exfoliants that work by detaching dead skin cells from newer skin for an even, smoother exfoliation. They are much more effective than physical exfoliation which can be uneven and harsher on the skin. They decrease inflammation, even skin tone and texture, and prevent acne by unclogging pores.
AHA’s are water soluble acids derived of natural foods such as cane sugar (glycolic acid) and milk (lactic acid). Studies have shown that AHA's can promote collagen production. They minimize discoloration by promoting cell turnover as well as increasing blood flow to the skin to combat a dull complexion. Typically, 8-10% AHA’s in a product is effective and a higher percentage does not necessarily make a difference.
BHA’s are oil soluble acids which make them better equipped to fight oily skin and acne.They easily penetrate deep into the pores to remove dead skin and sebum. The most familiar type of BHA is salicylic acid and due to FDA regulation they are always 2%.
Don’t fall victim to marketing and popularity. Shop around, do your research and pay attention to the ingredients list on products. Pin point the main issues you have with your skin (Too oily? Too dry? Fine lines?) and refine your list of products to target those issues. In the end, even with a holistic skin care routine, it's important to be realistic about the perfection of your complexion. Usually, the influencers and celebrities who determine our beauty standards either achieve their perfection through expensive procedures or Facetune. So don't be too hard on yourself or your skin and do what feels right for you.
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