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Someone once asked me what I like about Seoul. At the time, I couldn’t quite articulate what it was about South Korea’s largest city that made me enthusiastically rave about it. Honestly, I didn’t think there was a need to explain Seoul’s significance. To me, it was evident. How could you see Seoul and not fall in love with it immediately? Coming from the suburbs of a mid-sized city, all I wanted was endless exploration, hordes of people, and colorful neon signs of businesses open past midnight. People warned me that it seemed great until you actually had to live there. They were wrong. It was more than great. In fact, it only made me want to live in as many big cities as I can throughout my life.

I still can’t quite explain what makes Seoul so great. It might be the endless cafe’s, shopping, restaurants or events. However, there are certain special places that I think encompass why I love it so much. They’re neighborhoods you may not think to go to as a tourist on a short trip. In about the span of a year, these were my favorite pockets of Seoul, all wonderful in their own way. I often found them through wandering and while they may not be underrated by any means (most of them are quite popular!) stumbling upon them made them that much more special to me.

Seongsu-dong
Seongsu-dong is dubbed the “Brooklyn of Seoul”. It’s trendy and incredibly popular amongst locals. It borders the beautiful Seoul forest which is especially incredible during peak fall foliage. The architecture is quite different from the rest of the the city and it feels like a piece of Brooklyn carved out and dropped into Seoul. The streets are lined with eateries, cafes and boutiques. Often times, there are little tables and stalls outside of the stores with more jewelry, clothing, hats, etc to peruse. Not to mention, one of my favorite bakeries, Pitch, is located there. They have the best Pain au chocolate and banana choco caramel croissants. Down the street, Zesty Saloon is a great burger joint albeit a busy one (it takes over an hour to get a table, thankfully, you can leave your number and stay in the queue). If you feel like change of scenery or mixing outdoor/indoor activities, this neighborhood should be on your list!


Samcheong-dong
Samcheong-dong is a part of greater Jong-no, on the eastern side of Gyeongbokgung Palace. This area is tied with Seongsu-dong as one of my favorite neighborhoods in Seoul. My usual foot path to this area starts at Anguk station, taking exit 2 and walking up Bukchon-ro. You’ll pass another amazing bakery, Layered, which also has some of the best pastries in Seoul. Then turn left on Bukchon-ro 5-gil and walk down until you reach Bukchon-ro 5ga-gil. All the while, there are plenty of places to stop along the way. Bukchon-ro 5 ga-gil, as well as Samcheong-ro to which it leads, are lined with cafes, restaurants, shops, art galleries and, my favorite, photo booths. I highly recommend Analog Cafe if you’re missing more western style food in Seoul. There’s also Seoul Sticker Shop which sells, you guessed it, stickers that are fantastic gifts and keepsakes. Additionally, famous Bukchon Hanok Village is a few streets up but try to visit on weekday mornings as it can get packed.

Tongui-Dong/Tongin-Dong
The West side of Jong-no was an area I only came to see later toward the end of my year in Seoul. I regret not finding it sooner! It feels like walking in a cute, small town in the mid-west. The buildings are low and eclectic, there are book stores everywhere and quaint cafes that are so small and colorful. It also contains the oldest book store in Seoul, Daeo Bookstore which is a nice slice of history wedged between the newer businesses. The neighborhood also contains Tongin Market where you can purchase little coins to use at a plethora of stalls and fill up a lunchbox with food. Seochon Hanok Village is also located within it and while smaller than its Eastern counterpart, it’s still worth a stroll. 


Sinsa-dong
Sinsa is hands down the best place to wander in Gangnam. If you’re up for the walk, my friends and I usually get off at Sinnonhyeon on line 9, hit up Shake Shack and walk straight up to Sinsa. We love to walk down 신사동가로수길 상세보기 (Garosu-gil Road). It’s a famous Gingko tree lined street filled with Western and Asian stores, restaurants and cafes. I recommend Brooklyn Burger or Maddux Pizza if you’re craving Western food, or hitting up any of the outdoor Korean bbq places lining the street if you’re craving Korean.


Yeonnam-dong
Yeonnam-dong is a part of Mapo-gu and sits to the northwest of Hongdae. This neighborhood is home to Greem Cafe, the black and white cafe seen in To All The Boys: Always and Forever. There’s more than that though. It also has Dongjin Market, a traditional market that has young artists selling their handmade wares, and Hwagyo Restaurant Street, aka “Little Chinatown” which is lined with amazing Chinese restaurants. It also contains a myriad of unique cafe’s like Ver’s Garden, which looks like a lush garden between concrete walls. I had gone to Mapo numerous times without ever seeing this part of it! 


It’s easy to miss pretty popular places in a big city like Seoul! There’s so much going on that it’s difficult to see all of the city. I lived there for a year and went out practically every Saturday and Sunday and I still feel like I haven’t seen even half of everything this amazing city has to offer. 


When I got my first paycheck in Seoul, I practically blew it all at Olive Young. At the end of the month, when I looked at my bank account, I felt horror and disgust as I saw that I hadn’t saved anything at all. I frantically looked at my monthly spending to see that a glorious 1/5 of my monthly pay had been spent on skincare the very first day I had gotten it. I’d like to say that as the months went by I became better about how much I spent at the Olive Young down my street. That would be equal parts a truth and a lie. Regardless of my own personal squandering of financial assets, I did manage to try out an overabundance of Korean skincare products. I found products that I have come to swear by and maybe I can save you and your bank account too.

Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Cream

This serum is how I made my first friend in Seoul. My current best friend and I had initially bonded over our hyperpigmentation. She was the one who recommended this serum to me when I noticed her skin wasnoticeably clearer and glowing a month into our contracts. Over the course of one month, I had also noticed brighter, clearer skin that glows. It’s definitely a fantastic pick for anyone that has suffered from cystic acne and scarring.


Isoi Bulgarian Rose Blemish Care Serum

Another serum! This is tied with the Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Cream as a product I swear by for my skin. I’ve noticed a more even skin tone, less dark spots and less redness all over my face. Not to mention it helps keep my skin perfectly moisturized! I use both this one and the Goodal Green Tangerine serum as my primary issue with my skin is hyperpigmentation, uneven color and scarring. It contains arbutus which is a type of hydroquinone. Basically, it prevents the formation of melanin when applied topically, thus combatting hyperpigmentation which is an excess of melanin. The difference is definitely noticeable!


Neogen Wine Toner

The first toner I tried in Korea and it was a winner. None of the others came close. I used it during my nighttime routine as it has more of a tingling, revitalizing feel on the skin due to the AHA/BHA’s. My skin would feel nourished after a long, fatigue inducing day at work. For an extra punch, I would sometimes leave the pad on my face for 5 minutes (one on my forehead and one on each cheek).


LANEIGE Cream Skin Mist

My skin would get so dry during the workday and felt stale under the mask for several hours. I started seeing fine lines around my eyes due to dehydration (which is panic inducing at 25 years old). During lunch, I would spray it on my face to refresh it and energize me for the rest of the day. The best part is it felt really smooth and light on my skin, not at all sticky like the Mario Badescu facial spray I used to use. 


ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Lotion
The dryness of my face extended to the rest of my body. It was the result of too much hiking and not enough fabric to protect my legs from arctic winds. The moisturizer contains ceramide’s which strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier and sooth itching skin. After a couple of applications after showering, my skin had gone back to normal.

COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser

Ah yes, the OG morning cleanser. I found this cleanser to be gentle on my easily irritable skin. It contains Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA!) to unglue all the dead skin cells on your skin so they’re easier to wash off. I noticed a difference in my subclinical acne (you know, those tiny little bumps that form on the face, ugh) resulting in a smoother texture to my skin!


Dr.Jart Ceramidin Facial Barrier Mask

This mask was so much cheaper at Olive Young on its holy grail sales Sundays. Regardless, I think it’s still worth it for the whopping $6.00 per sheet mask. I use it on days where my skin feels particularly dry and, for lack of better words, crusty. It has a 5-cera complex which is a fancy way to say it uses 5 of the 9 different types of ceramides identified in the skin. These ensure that a barrier is created on the skin to prevent permeability which locks in moisture.
“A compassionate city is an uncomfortable city! A city that is uncomfortable when anyone is homeless or hungry. Uncomfortable if every child isn’t loved and given rich opportunities to grow and thrive. Uncomfortable when as a community we don’t treat our neighbors as we would wish to be treated.” --Karen Armstrong, Founder of the global movement, The Charter for Compassion

Now that the 2020 U.S. presidential elections have come to an end, it seems like we can finally let out the 4 years worth of accumulating worry in a sigh of relief. Though it's not unjustified, relief shouldn't be the immediate reaction to this news. Just as racism wasn't immediately snuffed out with the election of former President Obama, Biden's win doesn't extinguish the fires Donald Trump has set across the country. Since Trumps election we've seen a rise in hate crimes, particularly in communitites Trump had a significant win in.

1. Vote big and small Don't just show up at the presidential election. Change happens most immediately in our communities. Stay informed about your local elections. Who are the candidates and what changes are being proposed? Some useful resources are Ballotpedia and Vote411. Both websites will help you look up your location, find local elections and information on candidates.


2. Stand up when you see acts of discrimination When we stand in solidarity, bigots lose their power. If it is safe to do so, intervene in situations of injustice. Let it be clear that you're a witness. Let the victim know you see what's happening and ask if they need help. Read up on the 5 D's of bystander intervention if you don't know where to start.


3. Donate your time/money The juries still unclear on what's more important when it comes to social causes and charities; time or money. However, either is better than none. The editors of NYMag have a great list of organizations you can donate to here. The list divides into different categories such as victim funds, bail bonds, community restoration/enrichment and more. If you don't have money, show up for marches or volunteer your time. Can you provide meals/child care to marginalized people? Are you a medical professional who can provide assitance to protestors? You may have skills that can help those in need. Look at events or demonstrations near you and learn how you can help.


4. Support black owned businesses. Find out if you have any local eateries or shops that are black owned. Make an effort to support those businesses in your own community. You can look here to find eateries near you and here to find other businesses.

This is a great way to lift those in your community up and support their livelihoods.

5. Seek out marginalized voices How many books do you read by POC? How many shows or movies do you watch? Even look at who you follow on twitter or instagram. Are you gaining perspective and information straight from the source? By opening yourself to these voices you're giving them a wider platform and another avenue to be heard.


6. Reach out to your elected officials You can ignite change by reaching out to your elected officials. You can go here to find your U.S. representative, here to find your state legislature and here to find your state governer. Keep your massage consice, direct and name the law/bill/policy/problem that your concerns are about. Email is better than nothing but if you can, a letter may be most effective.

Hyaluronic acid, retinol, collagen, vitamin C...the list of skin care must-haves are seemingly neverending. After all, this is the age of the skin care connoissuer. We hear an avalanch of advice on all fronts; social media, youtube, magazines and more. In the end, all we have is a disoriented consumer. However, it's important to know not every touted and praised miracle substance is necessary for everyone. If your primary concern is hyperpigmentation and achieving brighter skin, then Vitamin C might be your go to ingredient.
Collagen Synthesis
To understand the importance of Vitamin C you must know the importance of collagen. Collagen is what keeps skin looking supple, full and young. It's the slowdown of collagen production in the body with age that leads to clear signs of aging. Vitamin C is vital in collagen synthesis, or how the body produces more collagen to maintain its youthful appearance. Vitamin C is required for the body to create the compounds hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine. These two are major components of collagen's structure and its stability. If you're taking a collagen supplement, then you'll want to supplement it with vitamin C. Vitamin C stabalizes the RNA of collagen, thus supporting and maintaing the amount of collagen between cells.
Hyperpigmentation
Vitamin C can help fade hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation occurs when melanin is overproduced in the skin . Melanin is a pigment that's naturally occuring in the hair, eyes, and skin. When skin heals from acne too much melanin can be produced, leading to darker spots on the face. Vitamin C can impede the production of the skins melanin due to damage and fade dark spots.
UV radiation
Vitamin C also plays an important role in sun protection. The sun is one of the biggest culprits of the skin showing signs of aging. Vitamin C can protect against free radical damage due to UV radiation. Applying Vitamin C has been shown to prevent and treat the damage caused by UVB rays. It can do this by supressing cell death, DNA damage and working as a potent antioxident.
Antiaging
Signs of aging such as wrinkles and age spots occur due to oxidative stress. Oxidative stress happens when the amount of free radicals, highly reactive oxygen containing molecules, outweigh the amount of antioxidants in the body. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C neutralize these free radicals and slow down these destructive processes.
Skin already contains plenty of Vitamin C. It's an integral component necessary in various bodily processes. If you haven't used Vitamin C yet and want to try it out, invest in a serum and up your daily intake through dietary measures. Vitamin C can be found not only in citrus fruits but peppers, strawberries, broccoli and more. It might even boost the current products you use such as hyaluronic acid or collagen.

Living in Seoul, there are a few things one can count on seeing on every corner. GS25's, ubiquitous coffee shops, and Olive Young. The bright, green logo is effervescent. For those who aren't familiar with the name, Olive young is a health and beauty store based in South Korea. Not only does it sell hundreds of brands from COSRX to Clinique, it’s also a fantastic place to get a deal especially on Sunday's. If you’re in Korea looking to purchase skincare (which you definitely, definitely should) then Olive Young is the most convenient place to peruse. It’s almost impossible to walk out without a bagful of products. However, the sheer volume of products can be overwhelming, especially when some of them are unfamiliar brands to the foreign eye. Here’s a list of the top 10 recently best selling skincare products from Olive Young.

Denim Jeans

Dr.Jart+

$9.00

Dr.Jart+ Dermask Water Jet Vital Hydra Solution.


This mask is hydrating and rejuvinating. It prevents moisture loss by the ingrediants aquaxyl and xylitol while maintaining the skin barrier. Dr. Jart+ can be pricey in the states but Olive Young frequently has a sale on its mask packs. A true necessity during the dry, winter months.
Denim Jeans

ILLIYOON

$16.99

ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Lotion


This is a daily, light weight lotion that's deeply hydrating and soothing. It's hypoallergenic and perfect for sensitive skin.It's perfect for keeping your skin fresh during Seoul's coldest, harshest months. 

Denim Jeans

Real Barriar

$28.99

Real Barrier Extreme Cream 50ml Special Set


This multifaceted cream set hydrates and moisturizes skin while reducing inflammation and signs of aging. It's suitable for all skin types. The set includes various creams and ampoules, perfect for holistically integrating into a skin care routine.
Denim Jeans

Round Lab

$24.40

ROUND LAB 1025 Dokdo Toner Jumbo Size 500ml (Free Gift: Toner 100ml)


This toner hails from Ulluengdo Island's healing deep sea waters and contains 72 types of nature-derived minerals. It has undergone clinical tests that have shown an improvement in skin texture as well as decrease in sebum and dead skin cells. If that's not enough, it's a 3 year consecutive winner in the Hwahae beauty awards.
Denim Jeans

COSRX

$4.00

COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch 24 Count


If your current skincare routine still can't prevent a breakout, COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch is your hail mary. It latches onto the skin, blending well for a sticker and even manages to mask some of the breakout, then pulls out all of the gunk from deep inside the pumple. It's the perfect supplement to your current routine.
Denim Jeans

Torriden

$20.00

Torriden Dive-In Kit (Serum 50ml + Cream 20ml + Skin Booster 30ml)


The Torriden Dive-In Kit is another all in one, containing serum, cream and a skin booster. This product is perfect for dry skin. It contains a 5D hyaluronic acid formula to maintain moisturization. The witch hazel relieves inflammation and the ceramides prevent dehydration while fortifying the skins natural barrier.
Denim Jeans

BE PLAIN

$11.80

BE PLAIN Greenful PH-Balanced Cleansing Foam


This cleanser is for those with thin and sensitive skin who feel dehydrated and tight after using normal cleansers. This cleanser is gentle and effective. With a pH of 5.5-6.5 it gives the skin a comfortable clean without disrupting its own pH level.
Denim Jeans

ROUND A'ROUND

$19.00

ROUND A'ROUND Green Tea Pure Cleansing Foam Double Edition Set


A foam cleanser for all skin types. A gentle formulation that works well in a routine with double cleansing. Comes in a pack of two so it's efficient and cost effective.
Denim Jeans

Manyo Factory

$29.00

Manyo Factory Pure Cleansing Oil 200ml


Another contender for a double cleansing routine. This cleansing oil is ideal for sensitive skin and those of us who wear makeup on a daily basis. It contains plant derived oils such as olive oil, jajoba oil and argan oil. The camellia oil and evening primrose extract revitalizes skin and reduces the appearance of fatigue.
Denim Jeans

dear, klairs

$20.40

dear, klairs Soft Airy UV Essence SPF50+PA++++ 80ml


The final item on this list is vital to every skincare routine. It's the best selling sunscreen at Olive Young, perfect for those who have sensitive skin or wear makeup daily. It has a high SPF and is rated EWG green. The final outcome is a natural, dewey finish with a comfortable cream feeling.